Mushroom and Bamboo in Anchovy-Lemon Oil

Demonstrating the power of infusing aromatics

I was chatting with a certain co-resident of mine who saw my book announcement, where I talk about the “see one, do one, teach one” mantra of surgical training. He told me it was “cheesy, but in a good way”. I had a good chuckle over that. He proceeded to explain that it somehow captured the merging between my two worlds: food and surgery.

The whole premise of the book is to demonstrate 8 core Chinese cooking techniques, and the best way I can think of to “teach” these, especially in static, book form, is to

1. Explain the technique - the concept behind the technique and why it works

2. Show the classic uses of the technique through traditional recipes that have weathered the test of time

3. Demonstrate new ways to use the technique, not necessarily through a traditional recipe but with modern ingredients. I hope this encourages you to explore the technique without adhering to strict traditional recipes.

In surgical training - it would look like this: I watch my senior perform a technique as they explain the steps. I would then do one under supervision, then I would teach someone more junior to do the procedure, demonstrating my own mastery. In reality it’s more: see a bunch, do a bunch, then finally try to teach one (which is harder than it seems).

One Chinese cooking technique I am very excited about is INFUSE. I have devoted an entire chapter to this technique, because it’s such a powerful flavor creator. It’s the culinary power behind chili crisps, scallion oil, floral syrups, and deeply flavorful soups. You can read more about it once the book comes out, but this recipe I’m sharing today embodies the heart of INFUSE.

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Mushroom and Bamboo in Anchovy-Lemon Oil

Anchovies dissolve completely in the oil and contribute a salty-umami flavor, without any fishiness. Lemon and garlic build on this infused oil. You can use this oil for anything: I’ve tossed steamed zucchini, squash, even carrots in this oil (to feed my toddler).

I used poached bamboo that comes packaged at Asian grocery stores (this one I bought from HMart), but you can also use fresh bamboo and poach them for ~5-7 minutes.

8-10 oz mixed mushrooms
8oz poached bamboo shoots
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets, chopped and mashed slightly
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon: zest 1 strip, then finely zest the remainder of the lemon, and juice the lemon
1/2 teaspoon crushed Sichuan peppercorn (or, crushed red pepper flakes)
1 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 scallions, finely chopped
ground pepper and flaky salt

1. Roughly tear or chop mushrooms into similarly sized pieces. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Sear mushrooms until browned and moisture has been drawn out. Add a pinch of kosheor salt. Set aside.

2. In the same pan, add another tablespoon of oil and turn heat to low.

3. Add your chopped anchovy fillets, crushed Sichuan peppercorn, strip of lemon zest, and cook, stirring, until anchovies are dissolved. Then add garlic and cook until fragrant.

4. Drain bamboos and rinse briefly under cold water. Chop into ~2-3cm segments.

5. Add mushroom and bamboo to the now infused oil and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt. Stir in fine lemon zest, squeeze with lemon juice, and top with scallions and flaky salt!

Cheers!

Betty